Q: How can I find and embrace my inner crapness?
To embrace ones inner Crapness, it is first important to understand what being crap actually means on a personal level.
To some, being crap is to fail. To others it is to be seen to fail. Many feel it is simply that oh too familiar feeling, seeping over us like a strange imobilising gas- the ego being pulled up short- the soul being tired by the earthly travails of its physical vehicle. These things and more can be attributed to the generation of the psycho chemical reaction described by many as, the feeling of 'being really crap'
In order to spread unconditional love and forgiveness amongst our fellow beings (a basic ambition for us all) it is essential to show unconditional love and forgiveness to ourselves for being crap.
To do this when we are walking the walk of shame through the slings and arrows of other egos (non crap surfers in the car park) and often, more violently, the vicious back-chat from our own small self, is an achievement quite high on the self love scale.
To gain basic humility through being crap at surfing can show us all a side of ourselves that may not be presented in our day to day lives.
For, the crapper we are, the more we fail, the more we fail the more we must embrace our Crapness thus:
To embrace our Crapness is to embrace the universe and to embrace the universe is to embrace ourselves.
So, it comes when it comes and it comes when it wants to and when it does, you know what to do.
Q: I am paranoid. I feel like everyone is watching me when I am in the water.
This is your ego talking Brad. Surfing is about you and the ocean, not you and an audience. Relax, enjoy yourself! Better Crap and enjoying yourself that Crap and worried... We are all part of the divine Brad, even when we are utterly hopeless!
Q: What is a wave?
A wave is water trying to get above itself.
Water wants to make a splash.
A wave is the will of water to reach for more.
A wave is water saying "Hello earth".
Q: Where have you been?